Your water heater is one of those things nobody thinks about until it stops working, usually at the worst possible moment. Here's the quick rundown on what we look for and what's worth knowing as a homeowner.
Common types of water heaters
Most homes in our area run a conventional storage-tank gas or electric water heater. These store a set amount of water (typically 30–80 gallons) and keep it hot until needed. They're easy to replace, but they use energy continuously to maintain water temperature. Typical lifespan: 8–12 years.
Tankless water heaters heat water on demand, which means no standby energy loss. They're more energy efficient and take up less space, but they can be expensive to install, might struggle with high demand in larger homes, and need regular descaling — especially given how hard our local water runs. Typical lifespan: 15–20 years.
Heat pump (hybrid) water heaters use heat from the surrounding air to heat the water, making them incredibly efficient — though they may not perform well in colder spaces like basements or garages. Typical lifespan: 10–15 years.
If you're comparing units, two numbers matter: the Energy Factor (EF), which measures overall energy efficiency (higher is better), and the First-Hour Rating (FHR), which indicates how much hot water a unit can deliver in an hour — large families benefit from a high FHR.
Location matters
Where the water heater sits affects efficiency, accessibility, and safety. Garages are the common placement, but units there can lose heat more quickly in cold weather. Attic units pose a greater risk of water damage if there's a leak, though safety pans and drains mitigate it. Interior closets and utility rooms offer better heat retention — just make sure gas units have adequate ventilation.
Red flags to look for during a showing
The biggest red flags during an inspection: rust or corrosion, particularly around the tank or pipes (often a sign the unit is near the end of its life); any water or moisture around the base of the tank, which could indicate a leak; gurgling, popping, or knocking noises, which usually mean sediment buildup inside the tank; a corroded T&P relief valve; missing seismic strapping (required in California); and a unit installed without proper venting or clearance. Any one of these can turn into an expensive or unsafe situation.
Two California specifics worth knowing: a permit is required by California law to install a water heater, and the California Plumbing Code now requires a thermal expansion tank (or listed equivalent) in water heating systems, to relieve the pressure that builds up during heating.
On the maintenance side, flushing sediment out of the tank once a year and testing the pressure relief valve go a long way toward getting the full lifespan out of the unit. If yours is pushing 10-plus years, it's worth budgeting for a replacement before it fails on its own schedule.